@Tricia & @mrspao – thanks for the tip. MUCH much better double tapping than doing the 123 thingie.
@Aknita – thank you! D for devilishly divine? 🙂
Edited to add: Did a quick search and found out this is the Turkish Cast on (without slip knot). Doh! Anyways, it’s a great one, and for some reason in my dim and distant memory I thought it was fiddly. Now thinking back it was fiddly because I was using DPNs. Anyways, if you don’t know this cast on, here is a little tute. 🙂
Now for the lightbulb cast on that Justine showed me. The concept is the same as Judy’s magic cast on and isn’t my idea. Justine showed me how she casts on for 2 at a time toe up socks, and I was just so surprised that you could cast on for toe up so simply. Instead of doing the funky figure 8s around the two needles, where you set up with 2 rows, one for either “side” of the cast on, and then knit into each “side”, giving you technically 4 rows after your first round, here you set up with just the one row, and knit into either side of the one row -resulting in the Benjamin Button of a cuff down sock. The set up row is the equivalent to the kitchener stitch row, and after then first round, you have 3 rows: the central bottom one (aka BB kitchener row), then the two new rows either “side”. I like this because it mirrors the way grafted toes have 3 central rows – and I am partial to the way grafted toes look.
You wrap the yarn around both needles the way the working yarn would sit for knit stitches, and knit across the top half wraps, then across the bottom half wraps, giving you a seamless cast on with the original wraps as the central row (in effect the role taken by a kitchener stitch row when you graft your toe). The eagle eyed among you will notice that if you wrap around 2 needles, the central row will be larger than it needs to be. If you really want perfection – I think the best thing is to wrap around the needle and the cable, so the size of the wraps will be closer to the size of actual stitches.
Then wrap the yarn around the needles by bringing the yarn towards you, then away from you under the needles, then back over the needles towards you. You’ll see that if you look at the top needle, the direction of the yarn wrap gives you conventionally orientated stitches. If you rotate the photo (or do a headstand) you’ll see the same is true for the bottom needle. Wrap for half as many stitches as you want. Here I wrapped 4 times giving 8 stitches (4 half wraps on top needle and 4 half wraps on the bottom. Each half wrap = 1 stitch for the purposes of casting on).
Start knitting – as you would for magic loop making sure to keep the working yarn pointing up so as not to lose the first half wrap on the bottom needle. Pull out the bottom needle, and knit the first stitch on the top needle.
When you are done knitting the stitches on the top needle, pull out the needle so that the new stitches you made are on the cable and put the as yet unworked half wraps on the other needle. Then knit the rest of the half wraps. Note the last stitch will look like a twisted stitch – just knit it knitwise as you would a regular stitch.