Short Rows: Shadow Wraps

Over the last couple weeks I’ve reviewed the plain wrap, the yarn over wrap, the Japanese wrap, and the double stitch wrap. Finally we come to my little unvention, the shadow wrap.

Thank you to Penny, Aurelia & Alice for their eagle sharp eyes! The instructions have been updated.

Method #5: Shadow Wraps

With the shadow wrap all the work is done when creating the wrap – once you’re done, the shadow wrap dissolves into the shadows, and yay! gets ignored!! It’s easy to see, so you can tell where to stop and turn, and easy to work since you simply treat the shadow as, well, the inseparable shadow to its twin stitch, that is you ignore it.

The first step is to knit to the turning stitch.

Knit to turning stitch

Before going any further, let’s just take a moment to identify the relevant stitches.  We’ll be creating the ‘shadow’ wraps from the the mama stitches – blue in the photo below. The daughter stitch is the shadow’s ‘twin’ stitch, from the same mama stitch as the  shadow.

Daughter & Mama Stitches

Pick up the mama stitch with your right needle.

Pick up mama sittch

Place the mama stitch on your left needle to the right of the daughter stitch (ie closest to the tip of the left needle), being careful not to twist it.

Place mama stitch on needle

Knit into the mama stitch (only the mama stitch, not the daughter one) knitwise – be careful not to knit into the back loop by accident.

Knit mama stitch

New shadow created

The shadow wrap is now on your right needle; the mama and her daughter still on the left needle.

Drop the mama stitch from the left needle.

The shadow wrap (on the right needle) and the daughter stitch (on the left needle) both come from the same mama stitch (hence the term ‘twinned’ stitches).

Daughter & Shadow wrap

Slip the daughter stitch from the left needle to the right needle.

Slip daughter to right needle

Now you have the shadow and the daughter stitch sitting prettily together – “twinned” stitches that should be treated as one single stitch – joined at the hip, as it were.

Turn the work. Slip the twinned stitch. Remember these are treated as one single stitch, just like a person and their shadow are one and can’t be separated.

Slip twinned stitch as one

The twinned stitches are easy to see – helping to identify exactly where to stop to create a new shadow wrap.

Creating a shadow wrap on the purl side is even easier.  Purl to the turning stitch, and slip it to the right needle.  This is the stitch which will become twinned with a shadow wrap.

Turning stitch slipped to right needle

With the left needle, pick up the head of the mama stitch.

Pick up mama

And purl it. No need to move it from needle to needle, just go ahead and purl that mama.

Purl mama stitch

And voila! Shadow wrap made, twin stitch created. All done. Yay!

Purl mama

Shadow wrap finished and twin stitch created

When you turn the work to the knit side, slip the twinned stitch, and work the rest of the row as normal.

Now, when you come back to working the twin stitches – remember what I said about just letting the shadow dissolve into the, er, shadows?  And treating the twinned stitches as one single stitch? It means when you come to working them just knit them when you come to them on the knit side, and purl them on the purl side.  No need for extra work there.

The front of the worked wraps looks like this:

Front of worked shadow wraps

And the back like this.

Back of worked shadow wraps

I totally love this method – it’s easy. It’s clean. It looks nice when it’s finished. The back is smooth. I can keep track of where my wraps are since the twinned stitches are so easily identifiable.  And best of all, when I’m motoring back after making all those wraps, I don’t have to do anything special at all. For me, slothfulness is the mother of invention (necessity – pah!).  The less work, the better!

71 thoughts on “Short Rows: Shadow Wraps

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  2. Thank for this explaining this method of short rows. I’m never happy with mine (no matter which method I use) and will be trying this method out. As you say, it looks extremely neat on both sides and I’ll take your word for it that it’s easy to learn until I can have a play with it 🙂

    I may actually have a go at doing a short row heel now that I have a method that won’t disappoint in it’s appearance – that’s just opened up a whole new range of sock patterns so thanks again.

  3. Ding! That was the lightbulb over my head switching on – I’d been doing the purl shadows slightly differently. They look ok on my Gnomely, but I’ll be able to do it right on the second one! Don’t know if this is an invention or an unvention, it’s genius either way!

  4. Hi Alice, I tried your Shadow wraps and I think it’s the best method for short rows.
    I’d like to ask you two things:
    – on the purl side, when you say: purl the turning stitch, perhaps did you want to say: purl to the turning st?
    – when working short rows for sock’s heel do we have 2 shadows after the first (like as with wraps?)
    Thank you very much

    • @aurelia, Hi – you do need to purl the turning stitch because it becomes the twinned stitch (there are far fewer steps on the purl side).

      When working short rows for socks, yes it would be 2 shadows when you come to the increase portion of the heel. Or you could work one plain row to the end of the heel sts, shadow wrap, and then work to the other end of the heel sts, shadow wrap, then finally start working the increase shadow wraps, keeping to 1 shadow again.

  5. This is brilliant !!!
    I use japanese short rows for when working in bulky yarn. For ordinary weight yarn, I used to do the w&t. I don’t find it fiddly (I manage to achieve it with much fewer manipulations than what you decribed), but I don’t like the loops it creates at the back of stockinette.
    Your method is easy AND solves this problem of ugly wrong side. Thank you !

  6. On the purl row, do you slip the stitch to be twinned (rather than purl it)? In looking at the picture where you say “purl turning stitch”, there is an unpurled stitch on the right needle, which I assume is the stitch to be twinned. Putting it on the left needle makes it easier for me to pick up the head of the mama stitch to purl. Is that what you mean or am I purling the stitch to be twinned?

    Alice

  7. LOve your explanation.. It makes it so easy!!

    Thank You!!!

    Where you say over the picture ..”slip the daughter stitch from right needle to left .. I you mean from left to right ???

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  9. Hi from Tanzania whre I am just working. I found your tutorial via the Bohus stickning group on ravelry. Thank you for sharing with us! I have a question: when you say “It means when you come to working them just knit them when you come to them on the knit side, and purl them on the purl side. ” are you knitting the 2 twinned stitches together?

    Carmen

  10. Thank you so much for answering 🙂 ! I will use your shadow wraps to beging to knit the body of my Green Wood Bohus.

  11. I am learning to knit toe-up socks and like the look of short row heels. I tried several methods, but kept getting holes and bulky ridges until I found your shadow wraps! I love that I can see the twinned stitches so easily and can easily tell where I’m at when I get interrupted. I love the smooth feel on my foot and as everyone else has said, it looks pretty! I’m surprised I don’t see your method all over the Internet. It’s great! You have very clear instructions for the decreases. I had to guess a bit on how to add the stitches back in for a sock heel because I’m visual and a novice sock knitter so didn’t quite understand your reply to one comment about 2 shadow wraps. Not sure of what I was doing, I started the increases *on a knit row, working up to the last active single stitch. I knit that last single stitch together with one leg of the twinned stitch next to it. Then I turned, slipped the stitch I just made and purled up to the last active single stitch and purled it together with one leg of the twinned stitch next to it. I turned and slipped that stitch and knit up to the leftover leg from the previous row. I knit it together with one leg of the next twinned stitch, turned and slipped and continued on in the same way. When I got to the last row of the heel it was a knit row. I slipped the first stitch and then knit all the way around the heel and instep. I picked up that leftover slipped stitch on the next round by knitting it together with the previous stitch which kept a hole from forming. I didn’t do any extra shadow wraps and had no holes. I liked the results and just wondered if I guessed right or what you think of doing it that way. I definitely will refer friends to your website.

  12. Whoa, thank you so much for this. I’m working on a design right now and was despairing of ever getting my short rows to come out looking right. This is so much easier! 🙂 🙂

  13. This is definitely the best short row wrap I have ever done! I’m using this on all my socks from now on.

    Your tutorial with photos is superbe, btw.

  14. I’m glad I ran across this!…it is the best aesthetically that I have found yet!..although I guessed on the increases…your tutorial is so good on this, would you consider putting one up for the increasing part?..pretty please?..ha!…thanks for this though!!!!

  15. I am trying to use your shadow wraps on a sock heel, but am stumped as to the increases. My first attempt left me with some unintentional eyelets on the sides. I would greatly appreciate some guidance on how to do the increases as for sock heels. Thanks for your work!

    • @Melanie, Hi Melanie –
      Here’s a brief tutorial on how to work a shadow wrap heel. Imagine you have 32 heel stitches.

      Row 1. K30, ksw1 (make one shadow wrap knit wise), turn.
      Row 2. S1 (ie. the shadow wrap – treating the twin stitch as one), p29, psw1 (make one shadow wrap purl wise), turn
      Row3. S1, (again, the shadow wrap) k to one stitch before twin stitch (ie. the shadow wrapped stitch), ksw1, turn
      Row 4. S1, p to one stitch before the twin stitch, psw1, turn.

      Repeat rows 3and 4 until you have 12 single stitches in the middle, with 9 twin stitches either side and one single stitch at each end, ending with a purl row.

      For the second part of the heel:

      Row 1. S1, (ie. last shadow wrap from previous row) k12, ksw1 (this stitch has already been shadow wrapped, just perform exactly the same action again, making a triplet stitch), turn
      Row 2. S1, (ie. triplet stitch) p12, psw1 (again, making a triplet stitch), turn
      Row 3. S1, k to first twin stitch (the last stitch worked will be the triplet stitch, just work it as if it was one stitch, ie. like a k3tog), ksw1, turn
      Row 4. S1, purl to first twin stitch (again, last stitch worked is triplet stitch), psw1, turn

      Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the twin stitches are used up.
      Hope this helps!

      Alice

      • @alice,
        Thank you! I have been designing a slipper and this cleared up the holey problem! Very good instructions in this reply.

  16. I love these short-rows!!! I use lifted increases all the time so these seem second nature to me. I love how easy they are to work, especially when working the shadow stitches with the original stitches. So much easier than trying to hide wraps.

    I have now written two patterns using this short row method. Thank you so much for sharing this method.

  17. I have been doing this short row technique since I saw Cat Bordi’s Sweet Tomato Heel video on YouTube . She calls hers “Thanks Ma”, and it is a much better way to do short rows than the wrap and turn I had previously used. Did you two collaborate on this?

    • @margaret Gruetzemacher, It’s a great technique. Cat and I didn’t collaborate on this – though she’s got such a great mind it was only a matter of time for her to figure out a new way of doing short rows! After posting this, I’ve actually come across more people who have also figured out the same thing – which is fabulous. Lots of people thinking and puzzling things out. 😀 And of course, the most important thing – sharing the info so others can benefit and build on the knowledge!

  18. Thank you for this! By far the easiest and neatest looking short row method I’ve tried to date. And the pictures and instructions were really clear too.

  19. Love this method! I spent some time playing with Japanese short rows, YO short rows and then I found your method (all of them via Ravelry). I really liked the look of the Japanese short rows, but didn’t like fiddling with the pins. Your method is wonderful!! No pins and an easy to find shadow stitch and it looks great. I am currently working on a sweater that has set in sleeves and is written to be knit separate and then sewn in. But I’m doing it top down with picked up stitches and shadow short rowing the sleeve cap. Thank you!!!

  20. This is brilliant! I’m looking forward to trying them on afterthought sleeves as I’ve never been completely satisfied with the texture of the wraps, either picked up or left un-picked up.

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  22. Well, i’ve given this a go….got the hang of the shadows….how do I turn into a heel? do I knit/purl to the first twin – turn and work to next twin on the other side or just knit straight to end and then purl all the others to the end????
    is making sense at all……confusing myself !!!

    Linz x

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  24. i am looking forward to trying this short row method. I have been using the Japanese method which works pretty well for me,but it would definitely be good to get rid of the loops on the wrong side!!!

    thanks!!

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  27. I love this method. I have found it to be the easiest and most elegant way to handle short rows. Thank you for making this tutorial!

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  30. How do I go back and do this from the purl side? I see in your tutorial how to pick up a wrap you’ve already made from the knit side, but how do I start a wrap from the purl side? Thanks so much!

  31. Thanks for this fantastic unvention and the great tutorial! It works AND it’s easy! (I found your post through ravelry.)

  32. Love, love, love this method. I’ve tried it on a swatch and the result was great. However I do have a question…I am slightly unsure of which stitch actually becomes “twinned.” Is it the turning stitch itself? Or is it the stitch after the turning stitch (similar to how a wrapped stitch is the one after the turning stitch). For example, a pattern tells me to knit or purl to the last two stitches on the needle, then W&T. So I would leave two unworked stitches on the left needle and make the first one of these the twinned stitch. Then when I turn my work I will have on my right needle a single stitch on the far right and on it’s left the twinned stitch? Do I have this right? Sorry if the answer is obvious, just want to make sure before I use it in a pattern. Thanks for your help!

    • @Ken, Hi! Thanks for your comment. 🙂 It depends on the angle of the short rows – so for example if your instructions say knit to last 2 stitches then w&t, then purl to last 2 sts w&t – following this through you’ll end up with a wrapped st, a regular st, a wrapped st a regular st etc. This creates a gentler slope. If you have knit to last st, wrap and turn, etc, then you’d have a series of wrapped sts without any regular sts between them, making a steeper slope. In any event, the twinned st would be the one you wrap – so instead you would have twinned, regular, twinned, regular etc for the first example, then a series of twinned sts for the second example. Hope that helps! 🙂

  33. Thank you so much for sharing this. I love the results so much better than the traditional wraps! This will be my new standard. : )

  34. Thank you for the clear instructions and photos! It’s very helpful to see how it looks on both sides of a real swatch (and with such nice stitch definition!).
    I’ve never been satisfied with the wrong side of my short rows, but this method looks great, was easy to work in ribbing, and the shadow stitches were simple to make disappear in the round (just had to untwist a few stitches). Perfect for the shrug I’m making where the edge could easily flip and show the back side!

    I’ll definitely be using this again.

  35. I love this method. It works, it is very easy, once I have done it, I can’t forget it, and it works very well on sock made from toe to top.

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  37. I’m doing a short row bust increase and I thank you for this. Now, it’s time to pick up the twinned stitches, hoping it works just as well

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  41. Hi Alice,
    Just wanted to say ” Hi” … I first saw your wraps 2 years ago and they have been a life saver…. Of all the methods doing short rows… I still like yours the Best!!! ♥
    Thank You!!!!!

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